Supports up to 650hp with Four 100 Lb/Hr Injectors! I have one customer who is having some similar issues and his AFR is down at 9.6:1 when it won't start. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. I go into much more detail about that in this article on startup tuning. Please help. If that happens then follow my 10-step process shown above. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. You just need to go back through the IAC adjustment procedure now that idle timing control is enabled. Note that Brazilian gasoline has 27% ethyl alcohol. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. I have turned ignition off turned screw in 2 turns and turned ignition back on and tps is at 1-2% not sure whats going on. Don't know if I should put this in a separate post. So glad this was helpful. If I put the vehicle in gear the idle gets higher with temp. They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Common killers: No filter in front of the pump, reverse wiring, driving with PWM voltage, running at dead-head pressure.Since it sounds like your pressure is right, and since the Holley system doesn't provide a PWM voltage, that pretty much rules out everything but the lack of a filter. Your closed loop compensation is adding a full 50% fuel. When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. Next, clean the IAC and all related parts with brake cleaner. What can I do? Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. RPM = 1200My slow gear I leave with 650 RPM, the IAC Position I leave between 5 and 6%, the I have seen this become blocked with debris / dirt in the fuel system and cause a high fuel pressure condition . I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. Any idea's? 30 minutes later CTS reads 161, start engine Idle is jumping from 450 (almost stall) to 1500, IAC is jumping all over 10 90. Should the iac% fluctuate? It starts cold fine, its just when its hot. When I start the motor I have to push on the accelerator pedal for the motor to start. I am right back to where I started. I have driven a stand-alone transmission controller for the 4L60E in my (then) Sniper-equipped '95 GMC pickup using the Sniper TPS with complete success. Without it you are working in the dark. What you are experiencing is rather common. Thanks again. Can the return line be an issue?I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! So check that timing and I think that you're going to find you need a good bit of advance. It's not necessary to drive it that way. After speaking with Holley Tech Support and Tech Support from where I purchased the systemthey decided to replace it. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. Or alternator? That's what you're seeing. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. Sorta similar to a carb having the idle mixture set incorrectly (rich) or the idle speed too low. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. Tried that and it didn't work? Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? (I'm running from a fuel cell on the garage floor 10 feet away with lines in plain sight and do see fuel coming from the return at a decent flow. installing and cruising down the highway 70 mph I just wonder if all I have to do I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! Okay, try my method. Engine has never stalled with Sniper system, once placed in Drive it just goes!!! This only happens when coming to a stop and the idle is ramping down to the set idle RPM. Or, at least, it should. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. mean that the IAC is causing it. I'd suggest that you assume everything the previous owner did was wrong until you can prove that it was done correctly. i would have been happy to answer there. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. These will fix the noise but if the performance is suffering then likely you won't see any difference since it is not likely to be related to this sound. These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. Short drives is fine then it'll Copyright 2017 Cyberspace Automotive Performance, Inc. All Rights Reserved. The idle will not return to the set value.The second issue is the same as the first but the motor will stall out. Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. Hope this helps! Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. I will try the other stuff when I get off work. I'm running a 408 sbc. If the TPS is 1% or below then the ECU is in control--2% or greater and the ECU thinks you've got it under control. It's all part of the pleasure of EFI. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! That is the IAC hold position. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! You will find a startup IAC percentage, an amount of time it holds at that percentage, and an amount of time it takes to idle down to the normal idle speed.By default, that number is 50% at normal operating temperature. Then your low idle problem will go away. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. Is this an issue to worry about? Note: The IAC breather hole is the roughly 1/4-inch triangular hole that sits above and between the secondaries. New install, when in setup wizard TPS says 90 percent and I checked the linkage and butterflies. Not that I noticed. When you experience this, before you touch anything or shut the engine down, first look at your TPS and your IAC. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block I'll have to check again tomorrow. We have shipped quite a few of these to customers in Australia and New Zealand so I know that there is becoming a good following there!We recommend this Inline 10-micron fuel filter to prevent problems like that. Great work, expert! You can disable the idle spark control at the locations below. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. Holley will take a look and tell you you have RFI and wish you good luck in finding it. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. Target AFR at idle is 13.8%. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. Please let us know how this works out for you! Second--even in the HP and Dominator systems where a fuel pressure sensor can be dalogged and displayed, the fuel pressure is not fed back into the algorithm. Remember that as an EFI System Pro customer you have access to me at any time via my cell phone. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. This is extremely unreliable afrer warm. (Plus they it just looks way cool in your engine compartment!) But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. I' m going to put the 3rd new pump this coming friday. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. The on board fuel pressure regulator in the Sniper throttle body has a small filter clipped over one end . After it starts it idles around my 960rpm setting + or - 100rpm. If I try and get the 2-10% i get all the way up to 1200 rpm. By the way your site and your accessory products are nice. the issue Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? Cl. While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. I've made all the adjustments, all the settings, and the IAC issue is driving me crazy. I believe that you have this problem solved now with your new inline filter/regulator. Camshaft is M-6250-B303 .480 lift intake & exhaust, duration at .050 is 224 degrees for intake & exhaust. In most cases the IAC (Idle Air Control) circuit is the source of the whistle. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. It's pretty hard to get the header tubes glowing at idle with a lean AFR. So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? Do you have any clue? My guess is a faulty IAC since it is intermittent and I have not done any setup changes. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. Find a lower price anywhere and we'll beat it by 5%! Is that normal? As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. Its just at low speeds, not sure if its loading up or leaning out. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Yes its at 95lbs, needless to say he promised a new regulator would be in the Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) Thank you very much. I have double checked everythingincluding fuel pressureand have followed the directions to a T.I plan on trying your 10 step process as soon as I get a chance. It's called tuning. As I said I didn't buy from you so you don't owe me anything. The first thing I'd do is check your fuel pressure with a gauge like this. If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. Jump on board now! Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? I certainly appreciate your frustration (as well as your wife's!) In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Idle when warm was 850-ish and IAC 3-4 just as when I readjusted it the night before. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. The noise changes sound with the throttle position. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. The engine makes very low vacuum at idle. If you did not rotate the distributor to set the actual timing to 15 that might be the only issue. May God's grace bless you in the Lord Jesus Christ. When I first told him to check for leaks he looked back there and said "all good". Until the engine starts, the throttle only has one purpose: To detect you pressing it to 60%, at which point it shuts off the fuel injectors. Hello Chris. Are these compatible enough? close to idle with the IAC between 2% & 12%. The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. After much diagnosis, I ended up replacing the intake manifold gaskets. Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. Your AFR is pegged lean. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. Get that thing installed and you're going to know a whole lot more about what's going on. Does that make sense to you? I never had a problem with this. Bottom line ismy first one must have been faulty. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. Though it started and ran good, it was dumping fuel and would not lean out to AFR set points. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great.
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